Mid-hiatus report: Atami

7 July 2016, Thursday

After a trip in The Little Prince Museum in Hakone, I took the ropeway from Tougendai in an attempt to see the Owakudani crater which is constantly smoking. Unfortunately there was an excessive amount of sulphur and I was forced to turn back at Ubako station. No problem: I just took the pirate ship from Tougendai and went to Hakone Shrine. After that, I proceeded on to Atami using the Tokaido Line train from Odawara to Atami station.

I came with my friend to Hakone (with him paying the accommodation for that area since it’s his idea to go there) but left Hakone earlier since I had to check in at Atami (I paid for the accommodation for there in return since it’s my idea).

First impressions

The arrival to Atami was great. Even from the train I could see the sea that was just this one huge horizon. It’s breathtaking to say the least.

Stepping off at Atami station I saw a foot bath with natural hot spring water. I didn’t use it because I was going to the hotel anyway and I had places to go.

I had to walk all the way from the station to the hotel, which was not a big issue as the distance was walkable.

That’s where things started looking amiss.

The place was deserted. It made Lumut look very much alive. If you don’t know where Lumut is, it’s the seaside town that you would end up in if you tried to go to Ipoh and decided to follow the highway signs instead of Waze. And there was a huge parallel to Lumut. Like Atami, Lumut is a seaside town that is a launch point to a nearby island (for Lumut’s case, it’s Pangkor Island). 

The entire town was the definition of "has seen better days". 

The hotel

I arrived at Hotel Kanichi, which I found out later had a very significant name (I will explain later). I checked in, and was introduced into my room by the porter. The porter couldn’t speak English, but no worries: that’s why I studied Japanese. The hotel room is a traditional Japanese-style hotel room, just as advertised. A bit old, but I can’t really expect too much.

The porter gave a sheepish look when I asked him about any special events for Tanabata. Turns out summer festivals are way overblown in the media, and can only be found in certain areas, and Tanabata doesn’t even register as a major holiday to the Japanese.

The porter gave me a map, with which he told me the areas of interest in Atami (not that there were many), but my main objective was to go to the areas where the characters of Love Plus went, and see for myself those places.

This map has markings that I made to mark out the plan for next morning.

Exploring Atami

After a quick freshening up, which was pretty much just wiping myself down with the wet towel that the guys at Tougendai gave me as a mask for the sulphur in Owakudani (not elegant, I know), I continued on to the beach.

I arrived at the beach, which was rather quiet. There were some Chinese tourists there though. I used the IR thermometer and measured the water (22 degrees Celsius) and continued on to Omiya no Matsu.

Despite what the game would make you think, Omiya no Matsu is not the bronze statue: it’s the pine tree (matsu) that the statue is placed near. The tree no longer exists, the only evidence being a section of the tree in a shelter and a faded column with the name of the tree. The statue, however, showed a plaque (in English!) explaining the significance of the statue with respect to Atami and the significance of the name of my hotel.

The statue depicts the scene from Konjiki Yasha (Gold Demon) [1] where Omiya bids farewell to Kan’ichi (as it should be pronounced, not Ka’nichi) under the pine tree now known as Omiya no Matsu. Omiya was intended to marry Kan’ichi, but a rich banker’s son fell in love with Omiya and appeared with a diamond ring and a proposal of marriage. Omiya was unable to resist and went to marry the rich banker’s son, bidding farewell to Kan’ichi at Atami beach. Kan’ichi was so distraught that he kicked Omiya down, shouting 「ダイヤモンドに目が眩み」 (You have been blinded by his diamond) [2].

This statue has become controversial due to societal changes, which I find it a good thing. A supplementary plaque adds that “In no way does it (the statue) condone or promote acts of violence. We would be very pleased if you could read through the novel and consider the pair’s emotions, as well as the social conditions of the time.”

I would have done that, if it was translated to English.

With the context of the time it was set and the situation as presented, Kan’ichi’s reaction was understandable, but not justifiable. [3]

Continuing on

I had an internal conflict with myself whether to turn back and walk towards Hotel Ohnoya or continue towards Izusan Shrine. Izusan Shrine seemed very far away, but there was nothing left to explore if I decided to go to Hotel Ohnoya since the ropeway was already closed. I therefore soldiered on to Izusan Shrine.

I took the route with the straightest lines, which led me to walk along a road that was on the cliff between Atami and the sea. Took me around 40 minutes to walk to the point directly facing the shrine, but what faced me was the worst challenge I have ever seen since I challenged the caves in Ipoh.

Stairs.

Lots of them.

And I haven’t even walked through the shrine gate.

My tracker noted that I climbed 83 floors that day, or ascended 830 feet. Most of it was spent there I guess.

After an arduous climb, which was 343 feet according to the map (or 800 steps according to Manaka), I reached the shrine gate.

Izusan Shrine

The climbing wasn’t done yet: according to Manaka, I still had 600 steps to go. According to the map, that was another 114 feet.

I didn’t care. I couldn’t care. I continued climbing the stairs, cursing the lovebirds’ stamina. The steps were bordered with hydrangea flowers, which were very common around the Hakone area as well.

I finally arrived at the main shrine area, wondering how medevac was going to get my lifeless body out of this area once I was done.

The shrine was deserted, though one other person arrived at the shrine as well. Whether she was there for the same reason as I was, I would never know.

I went to the place where all the ema were hung and started reading them. Almost instantly I was swarmed by mosquitoes, all wanting a piece of me. After swatting away a few mosquitoes (but not killing them, unfortunately) I remembered I had a tube of 75% DEET from my army days [4] in the camera bag and started applying it on my wrists (only my arms were exposed), saying “There! How’d you like them apples?!”

I proceeded to read the ema, some having rather standard wishes you’d see on an ema, but what stood out to me were the ema directly referencing wanting a girlfriend or Love Plus. Someone drew Anegasaki Nene on the ema, writing also that it was the 18^th time he has been here and wishing for good health. Another person drew all 3 of the Love Plus characters, writing a wish that everyone has good relations with one another.

Returning back

I climbed down the stairs, despairing at the thought of having to walk all the way back to civilisation (or what’s left of it). Fortunately, I was early enough for the last bus from Izusan Shrine back to Atami station.

When I arrived at Atami station, I considered getting a Japanese meal on the way from the station to the hotel, but seeing as how dead the city was, I decided not to risk getting hungry and went to the nearby MacDonald’s instead. I quickly texted my friend (who was still in Hakone) to take his dinner somewhere around where he is now rather than look for something to eat in Atami. He took his dinner at Odawara and witnessed a fight there, so I am not sure how much of an improvement that was.

I ate an ebi burger in MacDonald’s (a Japanese exclusive) made my way back to the hotel. Along the way, I heard drums and flutes, and I followed the sound of drums and flutes to a small hole-in-a-wall performance by the local children. I am not sure if it was related to Tanabata, but it was a small consolation for ending up in this deserted city.

I returned to the hotel room and awaited my friend’s arrival. The hotel was quite old, but quite clean and cosy. It was clear to me that it had seen better days. My friend knocked on the door and I welcomed him in. In typical Japanese style, we went down to the bath house and took a shower and had a conversation while soaking in the hot spring. It was his idea to choose a hotel with a hot spring after all.

After soaking in the hot spring, we returned to the hotel room. My friend was curious about the in-room meal in the hotel, so I asked the hotel staff about it. We noped out immediately after hearing that it was 3,000 JPY per person.

8 July, Friday

I was woken up to the doorbell being rung. I answered the door and was greeted by two hotel staff with a meal cart. Since we did not order any breakfast and the hotel cost did not include breakfast, I quickly explained to the hotel staff that we didn’t need any breakfast so as not to incur any more cost.

I used the normal shower in the room since I am not as enthusiastic about hot springs as my friend is, especially not in this kind of weather. Since we had to leave early to explore the area so I can get to Hatsushima to see the beach, I suggested to my friend to use the normal shower as well. We got ready, packed our items and checked out of the room to explore the area. I left my bag that was filled with toiletries and clothes with the front counter (since it’s a full service hotel) and set off for the ropeway.

We bought cold soba from a Family Mart along the way and had our breakfast at a nearby bench. One thing’s for sure, no matter how dead a Japanese city is, you can always count on a konbini being open.

We walked through Atami Ginza, which was a huge indicator as to how dead the city is. When what counts as the “Ginza” there is deader than what counts as one near my sharehouse in Fujimidai [5] it’s a clear indicator that the city is really dead.

We passed by Hotel Ohnoya and proceeded to take a picture of the facade. I explained to my friend that the reason I did not book a room there instead was because it was expensive and the staff were also Luddites who couldn't get their online booking system working. 

Up, up and away

We walked to the ropeway, but it wasn’t open yet. There was still a few minutes before the ropeway opens, so I went to the adjoining arcade and tried some really ancient arcade games that miraculously still work. I tried to land a plane in the plane simulator but stalled it and crashed. I walked out afterwards and went “That’s not how stalling works. That’s not how flying works.” [6]

The ropeway opened and we bought a ticket to go up. There was an option to buy a combined ticket with the Hihokan but we decided not to buy the combined ticket since we are not planning to go there. We learnt on the ropeway ride that the name for Atami came from the fact that the hot springs drained directly into the sea, making the sea hot year round. Now that the hot springs have now been diverted into the various hotels and resorts that dot the city, the sea isn’t as hot as it was back then.

Upon alighting the ropeway, we found the Lovers’ Point (あいじょう岬 aijou-misaki). I took the time to enjoy the scenery there. I could see Hatsushima from the lookout point, but it was rather foggy. The gate with all the ema locked onto it was interesting, and there is also a scene where Manaka locks an ema wishing for lasting togetherness with her boyfriend, but I have no intention of locking an ema there, since I don’t self-insert into the game as the game intends, but rather play as a third-party advisor [7].

My friend, though, decided to lock his own ema there. He has always wanted to get a Japanese girlfriend [8].

Weirdness, Japanese style.

We walked up stairs where we encountered a poster for the Hihokan that proudly declares “The panties of your heart will be blown away.” I gave a minor look of disapproval before continuing up to the ropeway exit.

The ropeway exit, as I found out, is right at the entrance of the Hihokan, where I was greeted by a topless mermaid statue and (IIRC because I didn’t take pictures) an erect penis model. It was surreal to say the least.

It’s also the reason why the situation as experienced by the two lovebirds would not be possible, since it is impossible to walk from the ropeway station to the castle without passing by the definitely family-unfriendly displays and finding out what the Hihokan actually is (Hint: it does not display gemstones).

The castle

We walked on to the castle, where we noted the exterior and had pictures taken of the both of us up there by a helpful taxi driver who was up there as well.

By the way, Hotel Ohnoya is not visible from the parking spot near the castle. Just an FYI. 

With nothing more interesting up there, we took the ropeway down. The plan thereafter is to take the boat to Hatsushima and see the sunset there.

Ground level

We hit ground level and the boat to Hatsushima was about to leave. I tried to get tickets but noped out when I found out that it was 2,700 JPY per pax. With my experiences here in Atami, I was expecting no more in Hatsushima either. We decided to go to Hiratsuka instead since my friend said that there was a Tanabata festival event there, but first I have to return to the hotel to collect my bag of clothes and toiletries I left at the front desk.

We passed by Hotel Ohnoya, where the lovebirds stayed, and I entered the hotel reception and took a picture of the inside after my friend suggested entering it. It was hot outside anyway, and I could use some cool air before continuing on. I got the impression that he was more interested in Love Plus than I was though. The inside of Hotel Ohnoya had a rather dated 90s look to it, and like the facade of Hotel Ohnoya (and much of Atami for the matter), it has seen better days as well.

We continued on to Hotel Kanichi and collected my bag. I was about to pay them 500 JPY until I was told that the 500 JPY fee applies only if I was going to get the bag transported to Atami station; just leaving the bag at the front counter with the intention of taking it later was free.

With the bag collected, we went up the slope to Atami station and took the Tokaido Main Line to Hiratsuka.

A final word: Hiratsuka summer festival is awesome. I thank my friend for suggesting that place.

Addendum

When I mentioned Atami to the Japanese teachers, they all have heard of it. I even got the impression that some have been to Atami before.

Comments

[1] It’s interesting to note that Konjiki Yasha (金色夜叉) uses none of the common readings of the kanji as written. Without prior knowledge of the name of the book and while limited to post-war Japanese knowledge, it was impossible to infer the correct reading of the kanji. I only managed to infer half of the name correctly because “yasha” is a Buddhist term for a demon, and thus I inferred correctly that 夜叉 was only ateji (words chosen for their sounds, and not meanings).

[2] The Japanese sentence is a reconstruction because I was unable to find the original sentence in the other plaques and I couldn’t be arsed to read 1000+ pages of pre-war Japanese just to look for one sentence. Heck I don’t even know which chapter to even start looking.

[3] According to academic sources, the despair of having been left by Omiya caused Kan’ichi to become a ruthless moneylender in an attempt to become rich as to not have a repeat of this situation.

[4] I was a clerk back in the army days, but they sold the insect repellent in the shop and any military personnel could buy it. According to all my combat-vocation friends, this insect repellent eats plastic and cannot be applied directly to the skin. I was supposed to apply small amounts of it on my clothing. Not that I cared anyway: I wasn’t going to be using that every day, and that insect repellent effectively makes me invisible to mosquitoes even in Mosquitoland.

[5] Didn’t know there was a Ginza in Fujimidai? Now you do. It’s left of the exit of Fujimidai station and marked with the Japanese words ふじみ銀座. There’s a Matsumoto KiYoshi there that’s pretty active.

[6] My mistake was that I flew the plane while still operating on more realistic physics engines (X-Plane uses Blade Element Theory, so it is robust even when simulating planes that don’t even exist in real life), where the plane starts to gradually fall faster and faster while still maintaining attitude. I can detect and counter that by closely looking at the rate of ascent, even without stall warnings (X-Plane 4G does not have stall warnings). The plane in that game stalls by falling like a rock while drastically dropping the nose immediately after hitting stall speed without any stall warnings.

[7] I set up that lore because the pre-defined actions the main character does majorly deviates from what I would have done when presented with the same situation.

[8] Given the differences between Singaporean and Japanese culture, and the major sacrifices either side has to take in the event of a serious relationship, such a cross-cultural relationship would be untenable with my current standards. In fact, I am not even planning on having a relationship within the next 10 years or so, even though it may seem nice to be in a relationship. I still like love songs though.